Smag På Byen Aarhus 2016 at Restaurant Skovmøllen
Smag På Byen Aarhus was an event that took place between February 4-14 and gave people an opportunity to buy tickets for 3-course meals at selected restaurants for a fixed price of 250 DKK per head. Drinks were not included. Restaurant goers had to choose whether they wanted to go to the first or second seating, and seats were therefore limited. As I was scrolling through the list of restaurants and menus there was one in particular that stood out for me – Restaurant Skovmøllen. Located in Aarhus S it looked idyllic, an old mill situated in a forest next to a stream – and the menu was exactly what I was looking for.
After a refreshing walk through the forest we arrived at the charming Restaurant Skovmøllen, and were met with friendly staff and a cosy rustic atmosphere. First impressions were strong and the old fashioned mill style was charmingly executed from the padded wooden seats to the curtains to the jars of conserves dotted around the rooms.
We were seated in one of the smaller rooms, it made the whole setting very intimate and the rustic decorations added to the ambience. As we were the last ones to arrive for the 17:30 seating, everyone was already well on their way to getting their drinks ordered and the talk was bubbling.
We didn’t feel like alcohol today so we asked the waiter for a recommendation for non-alcoholic drinks that still would go well with the menu. We ordered his recommendation of “æblebrus” or bubbly apple from Aarhus Bryghus, and didn’t regret it.
For our starter course we were presented with “Læsøhummer & fisk fra Vesterhavet” or Langoustines from Læsø & fish from the North Sea. The cod was smoked in-house and seasoned with organic dill from Lisbjerg, served in langoustine bisque with Arla Unika’s 50% double cream. In the mix to add texture and acidity was “jordskokker” or Jerusalem artichokes three ways; as a puré beneath it all, and then sprinklings of pickled and fried pieces. I really liked the pickled Jerusalem artichokes, they gave the rich dish much needed acidity. I don’t usually like Jerusalem artichokes, and though it was a good effort the puré pulled the dish a bit down for me. My boyfriend loved it though and had never tasted them made so well before 🙂 The fish was ever so slightly smoked, it was barely there and the langoustines were very flavourful!
For the main dish, we were served “Kalvesteg i nye klæder” or Veal roast in new robes. The veal filet was prepared in a sous-vide for 12 hours at 56 degrees C, completely pull apart tender and pink inside, and alongside it were port glazed sweetbreads and an intense veal sauce. The celery root was baked with top and bottom chopped off, so that it was easy to scoop out the firm flesh. And one of my favourite vegetables, white asparagus (from Marienlyst), made up the other vegetable element. The wonderful ensemble was garnished with swedish lingonberries and organic cress. I am not usually one for sauce but this one was amazing! And the meat was really really tender – it was actually difficult for me to cut, but the whole experience really made me want to start trying some sous-vide techniques at home as soon as it was possible! The celery root was a different interesting method that would be easy to imitate at home too, I’m going to keep that in mind for future.
To finish off, “æbler fra Karensminde ‘en suprise'” or apples from Karensminde “en suprise”. In other words “æblegrød” or apple porridge, sorbet, dried apple slices, and a delicious crunchy topping. Fruit farmer Bent handsorts all apples on his orchard by Hou. This was one dessert I couldn’t get enough of, but then again I also LOVE “æblegrød” – I always make it whenever I have loads of apples just taking up space. Perfect for using up apples that some people no longer find attractive to eat anymore, and I am unfortunately (or fortunately depending on how you see it 😉 )guilty of that quite often.
All in all, a really satisfying visit and the walk to the restaurant was really good way to warm up for a 3-course sit down meal. Definately would come here again for lunch and maybe a cup of a coffee and some cake with a girl friend or two when we need to get away from town and experience som peace and nature.
Friday 11.30-17.00 & 18.00-22.30
Saturday-Sunday 09.30-11.45 & 12.00-17.00